Mabotech Custom Tuning FAQ
Sometimes we feel like one particular brand is better than the other with OTS software most of the times it’s the company’s decision of calibrating the file one way rather than another (there’s more than one way to do this), for example, we can test 2 maps
from different companies on the exact same vehicle and like one a lot more than the other, yet the other could end up showing better dyno peak numbers.
When custom tuning a vehicle, one customer could find a predetermine setting too aggressive while the other not enough, that’s why custom tuning is extremely convenient as the user is the one making the choices and decisions on how the overall feeling of their car should be instead of the calibrator, also we can achieve much better and safer numbers than any OTS maps as they are TaylorMade for the specific hardware, condition and fueling of the vehicle and not a one size fits all.
**If you purchased a tune from us please don’t change hardware without informing us as it could be very dangerous and makes both parties waste time.
There are certain limitations and risks associated with tuning that the customer must be aware of, there are some things that could be damaged from a bad calibration, for this we take extreme caution and work our way up to detect any lingering issue and prevent any
premature component damage, we have been very successful in this approach even if it ends up taking a little more time to finish the tune, but we rather invest the time to protect your vehicle’s integrity and secure our results.
There are also issues that are not directly related to tuning but more related to driving styles and/or other hardware conditions, also a previous too aggressive tune could have reduce the engine’s tolerances and reliability.
You are running brakes that feel ok, yet when we add power and you do some spirited driving the discs warp or present some issue, Yes, the power addition from the tuning could have accelerated the wear or damage on the brake system but that’s not the responsibility of tuning process, same with suspensions, engine components, etc. Remember that you are adding power, sometimes 2-3 times over the stock output, that will bring the same addition of stress on the vehicle’s components.
**oil quality and overall health prior to start the tuning process must be confirmed.
MQB recommended plugs
Brisk USA ER12S or ER10S gap at 0.024î for 93 or low ethanol race fuel ñ 0.022î or tighter for higher boosted, E85 and/or methanol.
NGK BKR8EIX gap at 0.024î for 93 or low ethanol race fuel ñ 0.022î or tighter for higher boosted, E85 and/or methanol.
**ALL expenses such as but not limited to: Spark plugs, oil, fuel, methanol, tires, brakes, engine mounts or anything that the car requires, due to logging, testing or dyno requests are to be covered 100% by the customer.
Turbo size: Depends on the customer preferences one could think 3800rpm threshold is too much, another could say that it’s fine at 5500rpm.
Used parts: it’s rolling the dice, even on used parts that you’ve used yourself sometimes they could present some unseen deterioration specially if placed in storage for a period of time.
Aftermarket parts: Always follow our recommendations, if you are not willing or have a different idea please share it but we will give you the best advice possible from our experience to achieve your goals.
*MQB map boost tap is NOT recommended for this particular generation and we require removing this prior to the tuning process.
*JB4 or any other sensor enhancer must be completely removed not just ìdisabledî for the tuning process to be successfully completed.
Something important to consider regarding tuning.
Some people claim to be experts or to have many years of experience yet express basic falsehoods or clueless inputs based off usually wrong assumptions, don’t be surprised if you see posts that contradict something we recommend or have achieved, forums and FaceBook groups are filled with incomplete and/or wrong information, probably +75% of posts and statements suffer from this.
Posting 100% accurate results will attract congratulations from some people but be prepared to receive some hate from the typical people that would find too good to be true results (usually from their mediocre experience with other tuning platform they consider perfect). In the case of an impressive dyno (dyno is fake, broken or happy) same if you get an impressive time/trap (car is not full weight, the clock is wrong, track not certified, etc).
If an issue forces us to stop with the tune experience and this takes a considerable amount of time, the tune will be considered finished and a revisit fee will be applied to continue or conclude the tune, this charge or exemption of it, is 100% at the discretion of MaboTech
ALL information shared between us and customer, via WhatsApp, emails, FaceBook or any other means of communication is saved for future reference and added security.
Quarter mile times and Dyno
A dyno is a very useful tool to measure the progress of the tune/build, we usually recommend when starting a tune to mature it with street logs as it gives us a proper load and drag coefficient of the actual vehicle and after we reach a certain point get to the dyno to wrap up the experience.
*It is recommended that we have a baseline run on the same dyno to properly monitor our progress.
*All dyno related expenses are to be cover 100% by the customer.
-Tips to get better quarter miles.
– Practice, test, practice and test.
– Remove as much weight as you can, the lighter the car the faster it will go, also practice.
– Use good tires, the more grip the better specially if you practice.
– Race fuel is a good addition to the power/weight ratio but you should always practice.
– Did we say to practice and test? because that’s VERY important.
*All track/dyno related expenses are to be cover 100% by the customer.
Even though a sensor enhancer can help an end user make adjustments to get better overall output it is not without it’s limitations, maxed out power is limited to what the base software is allowing and there’s a significant inherit issue with the nature of this from using jb4 enhancers with DSG equipped vehicles, with different factors that could make this choice catastrophic specially with upgraded turbos on stock software.
You get what you pay for, if you let some unqualified person play target practice with your tune because you don’t want to pay for a professional service, your setup without a doubt will be compromised, underpowered or both, as well as missing the overall proper feeling from the adjustments that the setup needs.
We see some guys come and go, trying to impress newcomers with a higher octane or e85 blend stock turbo vehicles, adding a bunch of timing/boost without even basic
tuning knowledge that one would get by reading just a couple tuning courses. Anyone can move a stage 2 file up or down on timing/boost, but once you start adding REAL
boost and REAL power while retaining or improving driveability and how solve issues when they arise then you can separate a rookie service from a professional.
There is no excuse in searching for unqualified advice on social media, not verifying that advice, following through with that advice and then acting surprised when the misinformation blows up in your face, most of the times costing you more money than what the real solution with proper assistance would have been. Our goal is not to hear the ìoh well, if shops weren’t so expensive, we wouldn’t be going to Facebookî argument our goal is raising the bar and standards of what you can expect from your car and make you fall in love with it without going the money pit approach, or spending more time in a shop mending and fixing than driving it.
It is possible and even recommended that while the tuning process is ongoing you get help determining the cause and potential risks as well as solutions to a specific problem or problems, you can ask us directly and we will respond and help ASAP, no need to ask YouTube experts.
It is NEVER recommended to calibrate an issue or to mask it with software, we don’t offer cheating emissions.
When you purchase a part that the OEM counterpart is working as it should, you expect to get something out of it, better performance, better sound or better looks, as the latter 2 are subjective, let’s focus on the performance side of the upgrades of some parts.
We’ve seen some products like the infamous MQB map flange (boost tap) that makes vehicles run erratic. But most people don’t use those because they have been shown
to not be a good idea. But what about when people purchase tube and fin intercoolers for insane amounts as well as diverter valve replacements that are known to be much worse than stock in almost every aspect.
Please be careful when purchasing something as one of our main goals is to avoid the money pit approach to a build and wasting time.
An optimally conditioned stock fueling system is capable of aprox 400whp +/- 5% with the proper fuel quality provided.
If your case is far from this, and you are running say race fuel and fueling being the limiting factor doesn’t get you close to those numbers, the first step is to replace the fuel filter as most vehicles have higher mileage and have never serviced the fueling system.
Upgrades usually include LPFP and our MaboTech EA888 Injectors, from a healthy system this yields +8-10%, The XDI hpfp upgrade seems to be a good solution to complete this fueling system but final max performance numbers have not yet been determined.
-FSI EA113 fuel limits/upgrades
HO or high output (230hp to 271hp) Comes with a fuel system capable of aprox 400whp +/- 5% in optimal condition with proper fuel quality.
LO or low output (170hp to 220hp) Comes with a fuel system capable of aprox 300whp +/- 5% in optimal condition with proper fuel quality.
Upgrades include LPFP, MaboTech HPFP, FRV (fuel return valve) and MaboTech injectors. (fuel sensor on older LO vehicles)
For alternative fueling solutions:
*see methanol injection
*see Multi port injection
Alcohol fuels are a very good way to aid in octane and the quality of the combustion, in our platform as with any other platform it requires a significant amount of added fuel quantity and the higher the alcohol % the larger the requirements are at the same boost levels, without proper fueling upgrades it is not possible to run high ethanol contents and high boost levels specially on upgraded turbos.
If you decide on using Ethanol get an ethanol gauge for consistency and we’ll find a sweet spot where quality and quantity are matched.
A lot can be made with a simple methanol kit and one noozle, but if methanol is to be used as a fuel aiding system or full port injection setup a progressive controller (cortex recommended) is need it, we currently don’t have a specific kit that we can recommend as some hold advantages over the others and vice versa.
We are still waiting on a streamlined product to provide port injection to ea113 or gen1-2 ea888.
The MQB has been amazing since it came out, providing a much more efficient chassis, engine, easier to work with and with much room for improvement from the hardware to the software it offers, one of this nice upgrades is the ability to control very precisely via the stock ECU a multiport injection system integrated from factory on the ROW versions of the high output is38 vehicles and adapted with clever coding to mqb vehicles that don’t have them from factory.
Port injection is extremely useful for higher powered setups, first (non conditioned) MQB world records were only possible because of this, yet it is not without it’s drawbacks as we add more participation in the fuel % to PI the less efficient fuel appears to become (less octane, more quantity) say for example running 30psi on 10 degrees of timing as a good sweet spot, if you add 30-40% of port injection to the total fuel system without changing fuel quality, you will need to drop boost and timing in order to find the new sweet spot which could be 28-29psi and/or 8-9 degrees of timing this also combines with the need to use more which lowers MPG. There are some options for PI kits, all of them have their pros and cons from reliability to pricing on top of the PI limitations.
This is something that made us want with the enthusiast in mind to see how far we were able to push the Direct injection system in our vehicles, we already have LPFP upgrades that range from good to great, the HPFP solutions are scarce and mediocre at best and with our new Mabotech upgraded injectors along with our production team, work has been ongoing tirelessly in order to make the absolute best hpfp money can buy, according to our bench tests the stock hpfp flowed aprox 193bar at 80% duty on stock injectors, when duty was opened further the pressures dropped considerably as the pump could not flow enough, the autotech pump was able to push this a little further up to 216bar at the same 80% duty, but dropped bellow 200bar when pushed further. We are currently testing a design that we are aiming to get +250bar when the injection is pushed further than 80%, this could be a +20-25% increase in flow without upgrading injectors, with upgraded injectors the added flow is aimed to be in excess of +50%.
*Real world testing is underway and final HPFP will be released very soon!.
*If you are being tuned by us ask for recommendations, consultation is free.
Sometimes when finishing up our tunes where the real power is added, clutches slip, no matter if it wasn’t slipping on the previous tune if this happens to you on a finished or almost finished tune, we can either revise the tune later until the clutch is fixed to finish the 100% power tune or we can work around the slippage to get the most the system can safely handle and when the hardware is upgraded/fixed a revisit fee will be charged.
It is important when doing a specialized DSG tune to carefully choose the shift points, most if not all of the times the highest shift points are not always better in all gears, some need to be carefully chosen to ensure optimal powerband changes and smooth driveability.
When doing a log, be very careful Don’t pay attention to the laptop or what the logs are showing, let us worry about that, we also don’t care if the file is a little longer than necessary, we rather be safe than sorry.
There’s also no need to send 10 different logs in a single email when 1 log of 2-3 pulls were asked, please keep the logs as clean as possible and on point of the request (idle, regular driving, wot pulls).
Typical requirements of different power outputs, this is just a general idea, there's almost infinite combinations of parts that can help, hinder or do nothing.
MQB (gti,a3,7R and s3)
Stock engine, FBO, stock fueling, medium turbo (is38 or higher) and good quality fueling.
Stock engine, FBO, stock fueling with basic meth injection or basic fueling upgrades, good fuel quality and a bigger turbo (this is hybrid turbos territory)
Built engine, upgraded bolt ons, upgraded fueling and MPI, very good fuel quality and bigger turbo. Transmission hardware/software upgrades will be required.
Stock engine (HO and LO versions), FBO, basic fueling upgrades (hpfp, lpfp) or basic meth injection, medium turbo (K04 or higher) and good quality fueling.
Stock engine (HO version), FBO or upgraded, fully upgraded fueling with basic meth injection, good fuel quality and a bigger turbo. Transmission software upgrades
or clutch upgrades on manual cars required.
Built engine, upgraded bolt ons, fully upgraded fueling and MPI or a full PI meth system, very good fuel quality and bigger turbo. Depending on the power output
Transmission hardware upgrades might be required even on DSG with specialized software.